It was nice enough to sit outside for breakfast, but as soon as I started walking it started to rain. It was a steady light rain and it followed me all the way to Les Houches.
It is raining hard now at Les Houches as I am writing this entry. I am thinking of all the folks still on the trail and the weather forecast for rain the next few days. I think I was lucky to have such a long string of good weather.
Stats for the day: 8 km, 37 meter of elevation gain 1100 loss, 2:20 hours
Total for the TMB: 184 km, 10800 meter of elevation gain.
Refuge de Bel LachatMe with Mont Blanc from Refuge de Bel Lachat
21 JULY 2016, 05:50 PM
This is my last full day of hiking. Only 7 km left of the Tour de Mont Blanc.
Coming down from Gite Les Ecuries de Charamillon my path took me through Le Tour. I found a trail bypassing the town otherwise the TMB goes right in the middle of it.
From there the climbs to Loc Blanc had a few iron larder sections. But it is never really exposed. Loc Blanc was partially covered in snow. I had better time taking photos from Lacs de Cheserys. The TMB continues traversing Aiguille Rouged offering fantastic views of Mont Blanc except that the high peaks were soaked in, do I got great pictures of clouds. Finally arrived at Refuge de Bel Lachat it was overbooked. They can normally accommodate 28 people in an incredibly crowded dorm. Since I was a party of 1 they put me in the host room. Maybe it will be quitter got me that way. There are no showers and the single squatting toilet needs not be described. Lucky tomorrow I will be in an hotel in Les Houches.
Stats: 25.5 km, 1700 meter of elevation gain, 8 hours moving, 10 hours overall
20 JULY 2016, 05:06 PM
I couldn’t make reservations at Chalet du Col de Balme as no one answer the telephone, so I made it at Gite Les Ecuries de Charamillon, which is about 2 km farther down the trail towards the town of Tour. There is a terrific view of Mont Blanc. So far it seems pretty quite.
Today started with a big climb up Fenetre d’Arpette (I am told fenetre means window) the climb from Champex is 1200 meter and very steep at the end. The climb down to Chalet de Glacier was even worst (took me longer than said on the sign at the Col). After lunch I climbed the 600 meter to Les Gtands and then a traverse to Col de Balme. There is a terrific view of Mont Blanc and the Chamonix valley from the Col. Then 2 km down to the refuge.
As I write this blog entry, sitting outside enjoying the view, clouds started drifting over the mountains. This is probably a sign of the end of the great weather I have been enjoying the last 5 days. I can’t complain.
It seems there is only one couple and me in the refuge tonight. I suppose this place is not very well advertised. Dinner was delicious. It’s a very nice place to stop for the night.
Stats for the day: 23 km, 1950 meter, 10 hours including breaks. Despite the modest distance it was a hard day.a
The climb up to Col de Grand Ferrel went quick as it was first thing in the morning. The views from the top are of Les Grandes Jorases and the Val Ferret (Italy) to the south east and general alpine mountain top elsewhere.
I stopped for lunch at La Fouly and can easily see what the guide book recommended this as one of the overnight stops. However the day was still young and I continue down the Val Ferret (Swiss)Â towards Champex, where I booked a dorm bad at the Pension en Plein Air. I like this place. Along the way there are interesting towns with narrow alleys and mixture of new and old (and very old) houses.
Stats for the day: 30 km, 950 meter of elevation gain, 7:45 hours walking 9:30 hours overall.
Les Grandes Jorases and Val Ferret from Col Grand FerretVal Ferret (Swiss)
Again I chose the more scenic route, the old TMB trail that goes over mount Tete de la Tronche. The newer main TMB trails goes low traversing along the mountain side. As promised, the top of Tete de la Tronche offers a stunning 360 degree view of Mont Blanc, Les Grandes Jorasses, Col de Grand Ferret, Aiguille de Chmbave (to the south) and of course Courmyeur. The first image below frames both Mont Blanc and Courmayeur, which are 4500 apart in elevation.
Another advantage of the high route is the solitude it offers. The main TMB is a busy trail with many hikers, mule packers and trail runners. The high route on the other hand adds 6 miles and 500 to 600 meter of elevation gain.
I stopped for lunch at the Refugio Bonatti. Unlike Refugio Maison Vieille of the previous day, one has to hike to Bonatti, so there were fewer people and it was a much more pleasant. I made it to Refugio Elena by 4 pm.
Stats: 26 km, 1800 meter of elevation gain, moving time 7:45 hours, total time 9:00 hours.
After spending a night at Refugio Elena I have to say I am disappointed. I don’t recommend this place. The rooms are big and noisy, oriental style bathroom, breakfast is served late and not worth the wait and no cell phone coverage.
17 JULY 2016, 06:39 PM
The Vista from Col de la Seigner was not disappointing. Mont Blanc dominate the view to the north and Aigulle des Glaciers is almost close enough to touch. This is the high point for the day. Although the map doesn’t agree, my altimeter showed just about 2500 meter at the high point along the section before Col de Checrout.
Dropping into Courmayeur the trail is steep and dusty. Once in town the challenge is to find the way out. It seems they don’t want you too. The only sign in town is right next to the visitor center. I found it out only after about an hour of walking up and down Coumayeur and finally heading to the visitor center for help. The sign gives a general direction where to go, but don’t expect any follow-up sign on any of the junctions along the way.
Hotel Svizzero where I am staying in Courmayeur is a bit on the fancy side, but I thought after 2 nights at refuges it will be nice to clean up and rest. Also the food here is great, a big contrast to lunch at the refuge. It is also a good Idea to stay at Courmayeur rather then to pass through. It get’s quite warm during the day and it is better to do the 1200 meter climb out of the valley first thing in the morning.
Before I left to Europe we had a lovely discussion about the way trails are marked in Europe with an estimated time to travel rather than distance. I found that I can complete a section in 60 to 70% of the time specified, and for steep section 50% is enough. For example leaving Refuge de la Blame there is a sign claiming 9 hours to Refuge des Mottets. I got there in 5 1/2.
Stats for the day: 25 miles, 1100 meter of elevation gain, 8 hours with stops including 1 1/2 hour lunch stop at Refuge Maison Vielle (my worst food on this trip)
16 JULY 2016, 05:56 PM
Leaving Chalet de Mirage the main TMB (Tour de Mont Blanc) rout goes to Les Contamines and then follows the Montjoie valley. Instead I took the alternate rout (described in some maps) to Refuge de Tre la Tete. This route goes above the Montjoie offering terrific views into the valley and a relief from walking on flat roads. It also adds 2 km and 300 to 400 ft of elevation gain. This rout rejoins the main TMB at Refuge de Nant Borrant. From there the tour climbed quickly to gain the Col du Bonhomme and Col de la Croix. There the alternate route that leads to Refuge des Mottets climbed the Col des Fours. If it sounds like there are lots of col’s on this section it because there are, exactly 5 col’s. This contributed to the high elevation gain stat for the section. The summit of Col des Fours offers a view of Mont Blanc and the lower Agi de Tre la Tete.
Stats for the day: 31 km, 2200 meter of elevation gain, 3.3 mile/hour, 9:30 hours
Note to self:
Bring a larger camp towel
Sleeping bag liner is not enough, need to be able to get out of bad quickly
I haven’t have internet connection for 2 days now. Tonight there is no cell coverage at all
Chalet de Tre le TeteCol du BonhommeThe final push to Col des FoursAigulle des Glaciers from the Mottets areaMe on the alternate route above Les Contamines
15 JULY 2016, 10:24 AM
Arrived at Geneva, waiting for my ride with Mountain Drop Offs. The ride took about 1 1/2 hours and the driver dropped me off right by one of the trail signs. It was already 12:30.
I started climbing steeply to Col de Voza. My original plan was to go to Chalet de Miage via Col de Tricot, but I was concerned about the clouds building up over that area. I chose the longer, but lower trail via Le Champel. Once over Col de Voza the view changes. The glaciated peaks of the Mont Blanc area disappear and the green valleys of the lower slope and the brown mount Joly become the dominate scene.
Today’s section had a fair amount of walking on roads, some paved but mostly dirt. There was some vehicle traffic as well. My guide book promises it will get better in the coming days.
Stats for the day: 15 km and 1100 meter of elevation gain in just under 4 km/hour.
I meet Richard and Janet Vasser. They took a break at the Miage and recognized me as I just got in there to stay the night. They continued to les Contamines.
Chalet de Miage A typical signpost on the TMBMe on the trail from Le Chample to the MiageAlong the trail from Le Chample to the MiageLes Houches and the Mont Blanc rangeAiguille du Midi from Les Houches
14 JULY 2016, 07:26 PM
This trip had more than it’s fair share of delays. First my flight from SFO to EWR going through thunderstorms managed to land with just minor delay had to sit for 30 minutes in front of the gate as the ground crew was taking shelter from the rain. Finally at the terminal I got fyi sit through a 2 hours delay due to equipment problems. Specially, the airplane had a flat.
Finally we are in the air and on the way. I will arrive late. I hope my prepaid ride to Les Houches will still work.
chugchug 
